| RTEC
Stage |
Parts |
Description |
Recommendations |
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Stage
1
(max 14.7psi) |
Air
filter modification
- drop-in element or
- open element filter |
For
Stage 1, the filter is the easiest modification although it is
possible that no gain will be seen. This because replacing a dirty filter with
a new one always results in better breathing capabilities. But it is
the base in the tuning path as the more boost is increased the more
any restriction in the breathing path counts. |
-
K&N Aircharger
- K&N FIPK
- K&N Drop-In filter |
| |
Boost
Controller
- bleeder valve
- manual boost controller
- electronic boost controller |
On
the 3S cars boost can "easily" be increased by installing
a device that alters the pressure in a specific vacuum hose.
Installation of such a device depends on the controller used. A
bleeder valve mod and manual boost controllers work but are not able
to give the full performance and lack of any security option. The
later is very important to prevent damage ! |
-
Blitz DSBC
- APEXi S-AVC-R |
| options
: |
BOV
- recirculating BPV
- blow off valve |
Often
after installing an open filter element, a strange
"owl"-sound can be heard under partial acceleration. This
is NOT a faulty stock bypass valve but the stock design includes a
small hole that is responsible for this sound as the valve opens a
little. The sound is NOT a problem just anyoing. It is also an
investment in future upgrades. |
-
Greddy Type S
- DSM 1.st gen BPV |
| |
Ignition
wires |
If
the cars mileage is already high, replacing the stock wires is
recommend. At this time some "high performance" wires can
be installed but there will no gain ! |
-
stock wires
- Jacobs 8.5 mm
- Magnecor 8.5 mm |
| important
: |
regapping
plugs |
When
boost is increased, the spark will have to work "harder"
to travel. Therefore the gap should be decreased to about
0.032". If the cars mileage is high or the plugs in a bad
condition they should be replaced too. |
-
stock plugs |
| |
boost
gauge |
The
stock boost gauge does NOT show accurate boost as the amount is
calculated upon the amount of air is measured. For a precise reading
a real boost gauge should be installed. This is not recommended when
an electronic boost controller is used (already integrated) |
-
Blitz
- APEXi
- HKS
- Omori |
|
|
fuel
system |
The
stock fuel system is equipped with 360cc injectors. At 14psi the
injectors are on an IDC of 98% or even more. It is NOT recommended
to drive any injector above 80% for a longer period. Therefore the
boost MUST be limited to 14.7 psi whereas IDC already reached 100%.
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Stage
2
(max 15psi boost) |
Exhaust
modification
|
The
exhaust modification is an important part to allow the engine to
breath. But it is important to read the comments as the combination
is what rules ! |
|
| |
Gutting
pre-cats |
This
is a very important part as the pre-cats are the first restrictions
AFTER the turbos (the turbo itself is a restriction !!). This mod
frees up the turbo and let it spool up quicker for better
acceleration and earlier boost, as well as less lag. |
|
| |
Downpipe |
The
stock dp design is bad (the rear enters in a 90° angle to the front
stream!) and heavy. Any better design is recommend as this will
prevent the stock restriction. There are downpipes that already
eliminates the front pre-cat. |
-
Stillen
- ATR
- Buschur |
| |
Cat-back
exhaust |
Only
when all mods beforehand are done, an aftermarket exhaust can help
to gain power. Even more it may help as the weight reduction
together with the rest of the exhaust part is worth a few tenths ! |
-
Stillen
- ATR |
| options
: |
Main-cat |
The
stock main cat is big enough but will not fit any downpipe.
Therefore a high flow cat or for track usage a test-pipe can be
installed. Some downpipes already eliminate the cat. |
-
ATR high flow |
| note
:
|
exhaust |
It
is important to know that an aftermarket exhaust only gives you
sound and no power if the pre-cats and downpipe are still there. We
do recommend to add the cat-back as the latest modification on
street cars if weight is not really an issue ! |
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Stage
3
(max 17psi boost) |
Fuel
System
Injectors (440cc - 860cc)
|
To
be able to run more boost, the desired amount of fuel must be
delivered. Original DSM 440cc injectors are a possible way with the
stock ECU but fuel cut could be initiated pretty soon as the fuel
table is not in the right dimensions. |
-
Denso inj.
- RC Eng. inj.
|
| |
Air/Fuel
controller or
ECU upgrade |
A
fuel controller is needed to tweak the ECU for the larger injectors.
When installing a modified ECU, any fuel controller is not needed,
but would help for fine tuning !
Fuel controllers like the ARC-GP2 do replace the stock Mass air
sensor with a MAF sensor to remove the restriction in the intake
path. |
-
APEXi S-AFC (old)
(only up to 440cc)
- APEXi S-AFC (new)
(only up to 560cc)
- Split Sec/GT-PRO
ARC-GP2 |
| |
Fuel
pump |
When
increasing boost the fuel pressure may drop in the top end.
Therefore a larger in-tank pump is needed. |
-
HKS high flow
- Denso high flow
- Supra pump
- Walbro High Press |
| options
: |
A/F
meter |
If
an AFC is not equipped with an A/F gauge a good one must be
installed to make sure not running too lean. |
-
SplitSec ARM-1 |
| |
EGT
meter |
It
is important to know what is going on in the car. At this stage, and
EGT makes sense to see where the cars limits are and to prevent
damage. High EGTs (above 870 °C) are harmful to the internals. It
is possible that EGT rises highly when the timing is decreased. But
also a low timing also means present of knock and therefore another
danger forthe engine ! |
-
Blitz
- APEXi
- Autometer |
| |
Water/Alcohol
Injection |
Even
with dumping fuel into the chambers knock may appear even on low
boost ! If the intake temperature is too high detonation may occur
much earlier than thought. Water Injection can help to cool down the
temperature and to increase the knock resistance like high octane
fuel. Alcohol is only recommend if the installed fuel system cannot
deliver enough fuel ! |
-
ERL Aquamist |
| important
:
|
Data
logging |
When
boost is increased, detonation may occur due to the high intake
temperature. Observing the knock sensor is only possible with a 1st
gen car as no other tool is able to record the sensors signal. For a
proper tuning datalogging is the most helpful tool and the only way
to know if the car is safe ! |
-
TMO DSM
Datalogger |
| |
Knock
sensor |
It
is not yet possible to read the knock sensor with any external tool
(without the Datalogger). Therefore an external knock sensor can be
used. TRhe MSD product will be threaded into a hole in the block and
acts like a microphone. There are not yet any experience available |
-
MSD knock sensor |
| note
:
|
boost |
Even
with all the modifications, knock can still be found on low boost.
Unfortunately knock this is only readable on 1st gen cars with the
TMO Datalogger. Therefore, A/F ratio and EGT must be watched closely
when boost is increased ! |
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Stage
4
(max xx psi boost) |
Turbo |
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| options
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| note
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Stage
5
(max xx psi boost) |
Intercooler |
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| options
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| note
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Stage
6
(max xx psi boost) |
Internals |
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| options
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